New Zealanders have a word, tiki tour, for taking the long, scenic, faintly pointless route to somewhere. The South Island is the world’s finest excuse for one. In a single day you can drive from rainforest to alpine pass to a beach where the only footprints are yours.
A loose loop
Start in Christchurch, run down the coast to the Otago Peninsula, cut inland through Central Otago to Queenstown, push out to the fjords of Fiordland, then climb the West Coast past the glaciers and back over Arthur’s Pass. Roughly 1,500 kilometres; entirely too much to hurry.
Fiordland National Park, home to Milford Sound, is part of the Te Wahipounamu UNESCO World Heritage Area and is managed by New Zealand’s Department of Conservation. [1]
The unmissable detours
- Milford Sound — go early or stay overnight to beat the day-tour flotilla.
- The Catlins — waterfalls, sea lions, and a lighthouse at the bottom of the country.
- Wanaka — the lake, the lone tree, and the best flat white on the trip.
- Franz Josef & Fox — glaciers you can walk toward from rainforest, a genuinely strange pairing.
On the South Island, the drive between two places is usually better than either place.
— Holly Ngata
Van or hotel?
Campervans give you the flexibility the island rewards, but freedom camping rules are strict and enforced. Whichever you choose, book Fiordland accommodation ahead. More trips like this live in our adventure and coastal drives collections.
Where to Eat
Five stops along the loop, from a Michelin-starred flagship in Queenstown to a lakefront café in Wanaka built on sustainability.
RātāModern seasonal New Zealand — central Queenstown
Tucked among a stand of native rātā trees, a produce-driven 'casual luxury' restaurant with a daily-changing menu built on Southern New Zealand's seasonal produce.
Why it’s so good: The flagship of Michelin-starred chef Josh Emett — one of New Zealand's best, with an exceptional Central Otago Pinot Noir list.
Top picks: Venison, when on the menu · Seasonal produce-driven tasting plates
AmisfieldCentral Otago winery degustation — Lake Hayes
A winery restaurant serving a 'Trust the Chef' shared or degustation experience, with a longer Chef's Menu served to only 12 guests a day.
Why it’s so good: Led by chef Vaughan Mabee — named New Zealand's Restaurant of the Year and listed among the world's top 100 — working with a dedicated forager and charcutier.
Top picks: Pāua (abalone) saucisson · 'Rakiraki' mallard duck-head course · Whole wild red deer
FergburgerGourmet burgers, casual — central Queenstown
Enormous, high-quality burgers with excellent house-made buns and sauces; the queue can stretch out the door even at midnight.
Why it’s so good: A bona-fide Queenstown institution that's 'still worth it' per local guides, open until 5am on weekends.
Top picks: 'Big Al' (double beef) · 'Southern Swine' (pulled pork)
Big FigSeasonal slow food, Middle Eastern-inflected — Wanaka lakefront
A 'slow food, cooked fast' café serving hearty seasonal dishes inspired by Middle Eastern flavours and grounded in local produce, with a strong sustainability ethic.
Why it’s so good: Highlighted by Wanaka's official tourism board among the town's best for local, seasonal, sustainable dining.
Top picks: Hearty seasonal Middle Eastern-inflected dishes · Local kombucha and craft beer
InatiModern New Zealand tasting menu — Christchurch Central
A fine-dining restaurant built around a chef's table where diners share plates and watch the theatre of the kitchen, with a menu organised into Earth, Land, Sea, Large Plates and Nectar.
Why it’s so good: A New Zealand Herald 'bucket list' restaurant and MICHELIN Guide–listed venue.
Top picks: Smoked wagyu fat, beef tartare, marmite & egg yolk jam · Pāua, fermented porcini & fried bread
